Note that while I (Fiona) selected and sorted the images, and wrote the text, quite a few of the images were taken by Senna. Not only to reflect that, but also because we might eventually move this page to a website belonging to both of us, I will henceforth refer to us by name in the third person, to make it more clear who I’m talking about at any given time.
The quality of the depicted images here is reduced to save bandwidth and device-memory; you can get the full resolution version by clicking on the images.
Lastly: There are several videos here, you probably really don’t want to watch all of them if your internet connection isn’t very good, we are talking about a combined 6.5 GB here…
Day 0: Travel
Getting Ready.
⟨redacted⟩
Rotterdam
The direct connection between Eindhoven and Schipol was not available so we had a change-over in Rotterdam.
Schipol Airport
Duty-free shopping is a scam. Now even for alcohol!
Getting Ready to board.
City’s at night are beautiful out of planes, and Amsterdam is no exception to that.
Approaching PRC-occupied China.
Shitty China
Nothing quite screams “there is only one China” like putting transfers to places like Taiwan with transfers to places that you recognize as other countries…
At least the food was really cheap though. At least after we finally managed to figure out the value of a Yuan in Euro, despite all their censorship bullshit.
Thankfully we managed to leave for the free world soon after though.
Japan 😊
Deboarding the plane…
Vending machines! That means we are in Japan!
The first of many train rides to come.
We managed to enter our first hotel room about 2 minutes before midnight. At midnight the front desk closed, so we were really just in time. Next time I hope to have a bigger buffer…
Day 1: Osaka
First destination: The shopping district near Namba station.
And the first stop there: Buying strawberry pancakes.
Japan loves Strawberries!
Dieting… What was that again?
Portrait at Ebisu Bridge.
Senna also wanted one.
Eastward View
Car tunnels an be made nice to look at too!
Roofs over pedestrian areas are amazing!
A typical side street in Japan
Senna still cannot believe being in Japan.
Not even Japan is always perfect about being clean.
Dotonbori River
And the same with us in front of it.
The lack of trashbins seems to have interesting consequences.
Sushi!
The first step towards ruing European Sushi for another two years…
Fiona is trying to loose weight. Japan used “Conveyor Belt Sushi”. It is super effective.
You just take the one that you like and worry about calories and cost later…
More Osaka
Taking a break from walking after lunch.
In Japan they say that a bleeding nose is a sign of being in love…
Next stop: Tsūtenkaku.
And from closer
And the first of several professional foto opportunities…
Windy…
Day 2: Kyoto
The view from Osaka station was something we only started appreciating much later. Similarly the Umeda Sky Building is already visible here, but we would only go up on it at the very end of our trip.
Japan, we love you, we really do, but there are things you have to work on, and trash avoidance is definitely one of them…
Breakfast in Osaka
The beauty about Japan is that sometimes you have places like this in the middle of a district of high rise buildings.
Honmaru Palace in Nijō Castle
Nijō castle was a residence for the emperor and the Shogun’s. This is where the famous nightingale floors are and where the Shogun returned power to the Emperor during the Meiji restoration.
Senna made some weird comments about Fiona when she took that picture…
The entrance to the Shrine.
Day 3: Leaving for Hiroshima
Golden Pavilion
The Imperial Palace
This gate is for the emperor himself.
The Jomei-mon Gate.
The Imperial Sanctuary, housing the Divine mirror, one of the three imperial regalia.
The Kogosho
Travel
Sushi again! 😊
10,604¥ worth of Sushi…
Kyoto Station
Shinkansen! 🚅🤩
Hiroshima
The memorial for the victims of the atomic bomb thrown on Hiroshima
The actual hypocenter is next to a parking lot and some vending machines
Day 4: Miyajima Island
One of the recommendations we received before coming to Japan came from another Fiona: Miyajima Island near Hiroshima
The original idea for our first full day in Hiroshima was to first visit Miyajima island in the morning and then finish the peace park in the afternoon…
Oh dear…
It’s not that people don’t place stickers, but at least they limit it to places where it doesn’t really do any damage.
“Kein Bier vor Vier” they say, but Sake should be fine right?
I (Fiona) have the cutest girlfriend. 🥰
After minor adjustments.
So… It turns out Miyajima is a full daytrip if you want to enjoy it, which meant that Fiona went right to the front desk to book another night in the hotel when we finally got back. The perks of backpacking without prebooked hotels. 😊
Day 5: Hiroshima
How about: No?
The view from the top of the keep.
It is inexpensive but cute stuff like this, that makes a city so much more livable.
Somehow these were everywhere, and its pretty disgusting. The feel bad and cheap to the touch and primarily communicate that you only care about a (rather ugly to be honest) logo and not about actual quality.
Our first Ramen in Japan. 😊
Looking cute in our hotel room.
Day 6: From Hiroshima via Himeji to Nara
Shukkei-en
The first stop of the day was Shukkei-en, a garden in Hiroshima that we had wanted to visit on short notice on the previous day, but were a few minutes too late to be let in; in hindsight that was a great thing, as it meant that we actually had enough time to really appreciate it, instead of rushing through it.
Maybe the oxygen in the lake is a bit low…
The traditional offering to the victims of the atomic bomb is a filled water bottle, as so many of them experienced great thirst in the aftermath and couldn’t find water.
Leaving Hiroshima
Well, Japan is where pokemon was invented, after all…
Shinkansen!
Unlike ICEs, the Shinkansen always goes fast!
Himeji
Recreating an image from last time…
Nara
Day 7: From Nara to Kamakura
Senna didn’t try a second time, which we regreted afterwards.
Travel
Somehow Japan thought that having lady’s rooms on the Shinkansen was important. (There are no men’s rooms, the other restrooms are unisex.)
Kamakura
One of the reasons for why Kamakura was always a non-negotiable part of the overal trip is that it is the real life location of most of the events in the anime Elfenlied, which Fiona considers to be one of the most imporant pieces of media to herself that she has ever seen.
The 100 W powerplug with 4 USB-outlets was a very useful thing to have. 😊
Day 8: Kamakura
Sasuke Inari Shrine
Zeniarai Benten Shrine
Kamakura
Back at the beach.
Joju-in
It does sound cuter!
Enoshima
Senna really needed a break at this point, causing her to take a nap in our hotel, whereas Fiona took a short trip first to Gokurakuji, and then to Enoshima…
Who recognizes it?
At this point Fiona called Senna and told her to come over as well, since the expectation was to only come in the morning on the following day, which would have caused Senna to miss out on the view at night.
Meanwhile Senna took the escalators leading up the shrine.
At this point Senna finally arrived at the garden and we went back up onto the sea candle.
They were tasty! 😊
Day 9: from Kamakura to Tokyo
Gokurakuji
After several failed attempts over two visits to Japan, Fiona finally managed to get this shot with a clear blue sky. 😊
Towards Enoshima
LGBTQ rights being less of a hot topic in Japan, importantly doesn’t mean that nobody cares!
Enoshima
The Heavenly Maiden and the Five Headed Dragon
Once upon a time, a bad dragon with five heads settled in the bottomless swamp among the mountains of Fukasawa, Kamakura and tormented the people.
The called this place “Koshigoe” and feared the dragon, because he would steal their children.
For many days, dense clouds enveloped on the sea in front of “Koshigoe”. For a short time, heaven and earth quaked violently.
After that, a heavenly maiden appeared suddenly, the clouds cleared and an island appeared.
This island is known today as Enoshima.
The dragon fell in love with her, and he proposed to her.
But she refused him because of the bad thins he did.
Afterwards, he mended his ways and the able to get married to her.
Today, the heavenly maiden is worshiped as Benzaiten in Enoshima.
The dragon with five heads is worshiped as Ryukomyojin in Koshigoe Kamakura city.
The dragon’s love bell.
Enoshima
Senna’s dinner.
Monorail!
Fiona bought a necklace in Kamakura.
Tokyo Tower
And another oppotunity to buy pictures…
Day 10: Tokyo
At this point both of us were quite tired and especially Senna’s feet were still suffering a lot.
As a result we slept in for quite a long time and only really left the hotel at noon, causing us to have only a short day to see Tokyo.
Still, the break simply was necessary at this point.
Akihabara
The fact that these are legal to sell in Japan, a country with extremely strict laws on weapons, probably demonstrates best why the German ban of ever mere possesion is insane!
Overly wide shitty cars that don’t fit into parking spots seem to be a general problem around the world…
⟨redacted⟩
Shibuya
Sakura street in autumn.
Senso-Ji
Visiting old Friends in Asakusa
On my last trip to Japan I ended up repeatedly visiting a small bar in Asakusa, near Senso-Ji and became surprisingly close with the owner and some other people there.
In the end I promised her that I’d be back, even though it might take years.
Years they ended up being, but fewer than I expected.
Though now of course I had transitioned and was not sure how they would react and whether they would remember me at all…
⟨redacted⟩
It turned out that all of those worries were completely unfounded.
While I did not initially recognize the person behind the counter when I entered and neither did they recognize me, once I mentioned ⟨redacted⟩ and ⟨redacted⟩, they immediately called them and a group that included them came in a few minutes later.
⟨redacted⟩ clearly needed a moment, but also only a moment, and then immediately recognized and remembered me and expressed great joy of seeing me.
I had not been forgotten after all, and she even cared enough, to recognize me despite being ≈ 30 kg lighter and my different gender.
This was huge to me and everyone there was also very accepting (and at least it appeared to me: quite comfortable!) with me being trans and gay.
⟨redacted⟩
Sadly the metro system in Tokyo shuts down really early and we had to leave before 23:00. Since CANS would start on Monday (Day 12), we further more expected to only have a little bit of time on Day 11 in Tokyo and would have to leave for Osaka in the evening to be there by Monday morning, so we said our good byes and left.
Thankfully though we noticed when returning to the hotel, that the Monday evening program for CANS would only include the reception late in the evening, making it possible there to leave Tokyo at noon on the same day and still arrive on time, granting us another full day in Tokyo…
Day 11: Senso-Ji and the Skytree
Skytree
Skytree, lower level
Once you see it, you cannot unsee it, but otherwise the picture is still quite nice…
Out for the Night
After Dinner, our plan was to visit ⟨redacted⟩ again, but it turned out that they were closed; so we looked around for an alternative instead and found a nice cocktail-bar in the vicinity:
Very tasty!
After having some nice cocktails, we went back to ⟨redacted⟩, just to make sure and were positively surprised when they had in fact now opened. 😊
We also learned that ⟨redacted⟩ had looked into how “Fiona” and “Senna” could be written in Kanji such that the names would carry an additional meaning.
In the end he had come up with the following:
“Fiona” written as 風和南, translating roughly to “peaceful south wind”
風和南
When asked for an explanation, ⟨redacted⟩ elaborated that the south wind is warm, giving this a meaning that could be summarized as “peaceful warm wind”.
Senna also received a spelling for her name: 世納, meaning something like “world holder”.
世納
⟨redacted⟩
⟨redacted⟩
Day 12: From Tokyo to Osaka
Last thing to do in Tokyo: Eat in a very nice Sushi restaurant near Ueno station and spend way to much money (≈ 15 000 ¥ ≈ 85 €) there. Worth it!
And back in Osaka!
When they tell you that you cannot use the public onsen (because you are trans and pre-op) and that you can use the bathtub in your room instead, you take them at their word. And if the overflow protection is set lower in the bathtub than you’d like, then that even allows you flowing water. 😈
If someone engages in transphobic policies and makes my girlfriend sad, I (Fiona) will engage in malicious compliance, you can count on that!
Day 13: Some time apart in Osaka
CANS
Senna’s solo trip
Day 14: Day Two of CANS
Rivertour to Osaka Castle.
⟨redacted⟩
⟨redacted⟩
The traditional way to drink Sake: Out of a wooden box cup, a so called “Masu”.
Day 15: From CANS to Kyoto
Shintoism can really be a “practical” religion, and blessing cars (or for that matter fighter jets) is seemingly just part of it.
No Shinkansen this time…
Fushimi Inari-taisha
Day 16: Kyoto
It is the small details that make Japan such a nice place. This costs basically nothing but it communicates that someone thought of how and when real people might use this ATM.
Since the site is protected ground, new trees have to be planted on top of artifical hills.
A pedestrian Stroad.
Kiyomizu-dera
Day 17: Shopping in Kyoto and Returning to Osaka
Senna kept wanting to eat Wagyu, so in the end we finally got some.
Fiona also got some, but because she usually doesn’t like raw meat went with the slightly cheaper tenderloin, but ended up enjoing it too.
If you have a friend that is really into Eevee and you are in Japan, you go to the Pokemon-center and buy her one before you leave.
Smoking is still a thing in Japan…
It was at this point that we started looking into where to sleep that night and in which city.
Unbeknownst to us (until then), it was however Japanese labor day and all the hotels were getting booked out.
In the end we quickly picked the second cheapest remaining option, a room in Osaka for ≈ 250€ a night…
Once more: Sushi!
The coin-lockers are labeled by flowers. So when we saw this one, we had to take a picture…
Miffy, lief klein konijntje
The only thing thing that gets Senna more railed up than Miffy being called Miffy instead of the Dutch “Nijntje”, is when Fiona combines the international name with the Dutch slogan.
And the last official picture we bought.
Day 18: The final (full) Day in Japan
Most of the time, travelling spontaneously and booking hotels on short notice is fine if you bring a reasonable amount of money.
Sadly this was not one of those times.
Senna’s futon was missing the actual mattress, meaning she had to sleep halfway between the two and something smelled almost moldy, which caused Fiona to have trouble sleeping.
This was definitely the most expensive room on the trip and at the same time the worst one.
At this point we had pretty much done everything we had planned to do (and didn’t actively decide to skip), so we figured we might want to take a look at the Expo territory in Osaka…
The only thing outside the station turned out to be a huge fenced of construction site…
Pink Kawaii Cafe
The final evening.
Plastic inside plastic…
We knew that Japan loves strawberries, but that they would take it that far…
For the very last night we had booked us a traditional Ryokan near the airport. It was a really nice stay, if a bit short because of how early in the morning we had to leave to catch our flight.
Day 19: The Trip Home
Our last sunrise in the land of the rising sun…
Leaving the mainland…
Minor earthquakes are fine, it seems…
Don’t rush to be first, wait to be last!
There is very little point in being first to board, you just end up sitting in an overcrowded plane for longer. Waiting until the very end is usually a much more relaxed option…
It turns out that our plane arrove pretty late in Shanghai and we really had to rush there. We even got “express transfer” stickers onto our clothing and separate security screening with shorter queues and were lead into a different boarding location to get us faster to our plane. Senna found this extremely stressful and was not very happy with it, whereas Fiona was doing mostly okay.
In the end we made it onto our plane back into the free world.